I used oil base to letter over the dark background. The actual painting time on this sign was only about two hours because I was properly prepared.

I’ve been painting signs for 30 years, but I am still caught off guard at times with painful on-the-job lessons. Despite my many years of experience, I find that wall painting jobs can sometimes be misleading and are easy to underbid. Last year, when a long-time client with lots of wall space changed her brand name, I was glad to have the work. But I suffered through a dramatic underbid that dragged on for several excruciating days. 

 

I allowed myself to be fooled by the size and familiarity of the walls. I found that even the 1,000 square feet of painted signage I knew so well could shrink on me at a distance. The new art work was so straightforward that I convinced myself that I could paint it very quickly. I was swayed by the client’s budget and thought I was up to the task of giving a friendly deal for a huge, easy job. Judy Smith of Smith Signs offers valuable advice on the subject when she says, “Sign shops will tend to charge people they know and like less than what they will charge a stranger.”

 

As the job wore on, I had a lot of time to think about what could have improved the scenario. I hit a turning point when I realized that none of the problems with the job could be blamed on anyone but me. I swore I would never look at a similar wall the same way again, or at least not for the same price. Incredibly, I did get a second chance to rebound. The economy forced my client to change her name once more to include several additional makes of cars, and the whole project had to be repainted with a new design. Again I welcomed the work, but how could I knock two days off of the job so that I could honor my oath? I had no choice but to religiously employ every efficiency tip I could imagine, no matter how apparently insignificant. 

 

Measure large walls with a 100 foot tape and line up all of the art carefully, using full-scale software. Make an exact map of where all of the sign elements should be placed. Start in the center, no matter how sure the plan. Use the largest paper possible and pounce the patterns using a plotter attachment. Make room for long spools of paper. Ensure that all paper feeding can handle the large dimensions of the plot. Break up long lines into 25' units and make careful note on the map where they fit. Have plenty of paper widths available such as 30", 24" and 15", to make the best use of material. Do not waste time sanding the back of the paper. The plotter settings should provide a good enough image without this extra step. Computer-plotted patterns over 48" can become difficult to tile and very confusing to manage on site. Pen plot them out and then trace them with the electro-pounce, which also makes everything easier to see and to line up later. Bring duct tape in case masking tape is insufficient. Tile simple, graphic patterns directly on the wall no matter how large. Tape up large, odd-shaped graphic patterns (up to 75 square feet) in advance. Stock ample black and white pounce powder and use a large sock to create the image. 

 

 

Position yourself in front of the work in the most convenient way. Most ladder and lift setups will save time. They can also waste time, but not as much as the inevitable drag of working off a single ladder no matter what the height. Using a plank is more efficient when working at any height, even 4' off the ground. Longer planks save time when feasible. Use multiple combinations of brushes and rollers. Stock and maintain house-painting brushes, large fitches and many different type rollers. Do corners and serifs with a small size that conforms well and cut in stroke lines with a stiff fitch or house-painting brush. Mask off painted lines only if it saves time, such as double-coating a long line with not too much bleeding. Do all fill in with a very large brush or a properly sized roller. Even rolling takes time, so use a bucket and screen on a ladder, instead of a rolling pan. Never fill in with a small tool, no matter how tempting. Bring several types of paint to find the best comfort zone in terms of weather, workability and fumes. Use high quality latex for large backgrounds and black lettering. Use Ronan Aqua-coat for deep colors. Use white 1 Shot to cover over dark backgrounds. Do not use customer-supplied brands, unless they cover very well or are too difficult to match any other way. Avoid double-coating and holidays by using a thick paint whenever possible or allow for a minimal second pass.

 

The second time around, I had to reconsider my whole approach to wall painting. I had to admit that I’d grown accustomed to making up for low bids by rushing and doing without breaks. I learned that there is a limit to how much my personal painting speed can compensate for a lack of planning on a large job. House painters are reminded daily that painting is 90 percent preparation. In the end, I succeeded in my quest to repeat the job without the heartache. I benefited greatly by putting into practice every conceivable time- saving tip I could think of. I utilized so many strategies that I’m not sure which ones helped the most, but the final result was a huge time savings and a boost in self-esteem that I’ll remember for a long time.